A properly installed hot water tank can run trouble-free for many years. Badly installed, it leaks, trips the breaker, scales up quickly… and can even become dangerous. Before you install an electric water heater, you need to think carefully about three things: the location, the safety valve group and the water and electrical connections.
This guide explains the steps and the most common mistakes, so you can prepare the job and check the work. Pressurised water and electricity do not mix well: if in doubt, have the installation done by a qualified plumber and electrician.
Contents
Installing an electric water heater: choosing the right location
As close as possible to the taps
The further the tank is from the shower or sink, the longer you have to run the water before it comes out hot, and the more heat is lost in the pipes. Ideally, place it near the main bathroom, in an accessible space (for maintenance and draining), protected from frost and bad weather.
A wall that can bear the weight
One litre of water weighs one kilo. A full 100-litre tank therefore weighs more than 100 kg including its body. It must be fixed to a load-bearing or sufficiently strong wall (concrete, solid brick), with anchors and threaded rods suited to the wall. On a lightweight partition, you need a floor stand or reinforcement.
Respect the bathroom zones
If the tank is installed in the bathroom, it must be placed outside the direct spray zone of the shower or bathtub, and the electrical connections must stay protected from water splashes. Your electrician will be able to tell you the permitted position.
| Capacity (guide) | Typical use | Example in our shop |
|---|---|---|
| 10 to 15 L | Single sink or washbasin | Ariston 10 L, from 1 030 DH |
| 30 to 50 L | 1 to 2 people, studio | Thermor 50 L, from 1 300 DH |
| 80 L | Family of 3 to 4 people | Ariston 80 L, from 1 680 DH |
| 100 L | Large family, several showers | Aguamix 100 L, Ariston, Bosch… |
Up-to-date prices on the product pages of the water heaters collection. Actual needs depend on your habits: to compare electric, gas and solar, read our buying guide.
The safety valve group: the essential part
As it heats, water expands and the pressure inside the tank rises. The safety valve group, fitted on the tank's cold water inlet, releases a little water when the pressure exceeds its threshold (usually 7 bar). Without it, the tank can deform, leak or, in the worst case, burst.
- It is fitted directly on the cold water inlet, with no valve or check valve between it and the tank.
- Its outlet must be connected to the drain via a trap or a funnel: a few drops while heating is normal.
- It is also used to drain the tank.
- Operate its valve once a month to stop it from seizing up with limescale.
If your mains pressure is high (safety valve group dripping constantly), your plumber can add a pressure reducer upstream.
Water and electrical connections
Plumbing side
- Locate the two connections: cold water (often blue) and hot water (often red). Do not swap them.
- Fit the safety valve group on the cold water, then connect the hot water outlet to your taps.
- Between a steel tank and copper pipes, use dielectric fittings to limit corrosion.
- Use new, suitable seals, without too much hemp or PTFE tape.
Electrical side
- A dedicated circuit from the panel, with a cable cross-section suited to the tank's power.
- Protection by a correctly rated circuit breaker and a 30 mA RCD, essential in a wet room.
- Mandatory earthing: never a tank without earth.
- Never connect it to an extension lead or a power strip.
If your panel is short of space or has no RCD, now is the time to upgrade it: see our electrical panels. These connections must be carried out by a qualified electrician.
Filling and commissioning
- Open a hot water tap, then the cold water supply.
- Wait until the water flows steadily, with no air at the tap: the tank is full.
- Check that none of the connections leak.
- Only then, switch on the power.
- Set the thermostat to a reasonable temperature, around 55 to 60 °C (guide): above that, limescale builds up faster and consumption increases.
Brico MIM tip: never switch on a water heater when it is empty. The heating element burns out within moments out of water. If it has already happened, a replacement 2000 W 230 V heating element and a new flange gasket are available in our water heater accessories (check compatibility with your appliance).
Mistakes to avoid
- Removing or blocking the safety valve group because it drips: it is what protects the tank.
- Putting a valve between the safety group and the tank: the safety device no longer works if it is closed.
- Mounting a large tank on a weak partition with unsuitable anchors.
- Connecting without earth or RCD, or on a circuit that is already loaded.
- Swapping hot and cold water: the hot water runs out very quickly.
- Forgetting maintenance: with hard water, have the anode checked and descale regularly. Water that heats poorly or a tank that trips the breaker are often the first signs of scaling.
Frequently asked questions about installing an electric water heater
The safety valve group drips: is that normal?
A few drops while heating, yes: that is the expansion water. A continuous flow, however, indicates excessive pressure or a scaled-up valve group: have it checked.
Can the water heater be installed horizontally?
Only if the model is designed for that position. Always follow the mounting direction specified by the manufacturer.
How long does it take to heat the water the first time?
It depends on the capacity, the power of the heating element and the temperature of the cold water: allow several hours for a large tank.
Do you deliver everywhere in Morocco?
Yes, Brico MIM delivers to all cities in Morocco, with cash on delivery.
Choose your electric water heater
From 10 to 100 litres, Ariston, Thermor, Bosch, Ferri… and free advice on WhatsApp.
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